With an area of 83 sq km, Pantelleria is the largest of the Sicilian islands, it is also the westernmost, only 84 km from the African continent it is at the same latitude as Tunisia. The warm climate is regulated by the sea winds that constantly blow and justify the former name, Qawsarah or Bent el Rion, given by the Arabs and meaning Daughter of the Wind. The current name is of Late Greek or Byzantine origin and means ‘land rich in offerings’.
The jagged coasts are bathed by a crystalline sea and the seabed is rich in flora and fauna. The steep slopes are covered with terraced crops enclosed by dry stone walls giving the island its exceptional character.
The island's peak is Montagna Grande, a now extinct volcanic crater with an altitude of 836 meters above sea level. Today there is still evidence of volcanic activity such as the thermal waters, the sulphurous vapours that seep out of natural caves and the jets of steam that escape out of fissures in the lava rocks.
Pantelleria's first human settlements were linked to the highly sought-after volcanic glass throughout history. The Sesi people were one of the early civilisations but are still wrapped in a mystery, they built cyclopean walls, stone tombs and sepulchral monuments dating back to the ancient Bronze Age. Excavations have been made on the northwest coast in the area of Mursia, 3 km from the centre of Pantelleria. The island's soil is very fertile, even if there is a scarcity of water and it is covered by rich vegetation.
Places to visit
The houses in the capital cluster around the port where the Barbican Castle rises. It dates back to the Roman era and was demolished and rebuilt several times but the present appearance was due to Frederick II of Swabia. Continuing south, there is a Neolithic Village then past Mursia and the Red Kuddies there are ancient red-coloured craters and about 3 km on the left is the archaeological site.The site is home to an elliptical, tower-shaped building constructed with large lava boulders, surrounded by a flat curb that spirals towards the summit. At the base, there are twelve entrances that meet at a very low corridor off which there are many burial chambers with vaulted roofs. The dead lay inside, surrounded by their objects in a fetal position, with their heads facing the west.
A little further on you reach Punta Fram, whose black rocks stretch into the sea. Further on there is the Cave of Satan which contains thermal waters. Be sure to also visit Scauri, a village located high up on the cliff with a pretty harbour and thermal springs. Continuing along the coast you will find Nikà a tiny fishing port built in a lava ravine where there are rocks fed by thermal springs. Continuing along the road you will find Rekhale, a village that still preserves the old dammusi, Pantelleria gardens and Saltalavecchia (Salto della Vecchia) one of the highest points of the cliff, where you can enjoy an incredible view overlooking the sea.
Another destination is Balata dei Turchi, which is a landing used by the Saracens to arrive on the island undisturbed. It is one of the few descents to the sea on the island that is protected from the wind and rich in vegetation, such as wild broom and pines. Also Punta dell'Arco is a cape that extends into the sea with the Arco dell'Elefante at the end, which is a spectacular arc of grey lava that looks like an elephant.
There is also Gadir, a small fishing port with bubbling thermal water. Be sure to visit the Punta Spadillo lighthouse and the nearby Lake of the Ondine that is surrounded by beautiful cliffs and magnificent volcanic rocks, there is also a little tank that fills with sea water forming an emerald green mirror. After passing the beautiful Cala dei Cinque Denti, you will find the Venere di Venere, an enchanting green lake, which is fed by a sulphurous spring. It is said that the goddess was reflected in the lake to compare her beauty with her rival, Psyche.
Beaches
The best way to discover the beaches is by boat. The black lava rocks contrast with the intense blue of the sea that sometimes becomes emerald green. The coast has some delightful little coves, ravines and caves. The north coast is jagged and in the area of Cuddia Randazzo, there are black shapes in which figures of animals and monsters can be seen. There are a series of coves and caves before you arrive at the famous Elephant Arch, followed by a series of caves divided by lava pillars.
The stretch between Punta Duce and Punta Polacca has the most beautiful caves, best visited by small boat. The Grotta del Duce, Formaggio and Pila dell'Acqua are the most spectacular part of the coast, with walls that rise to dizzying heights. There are also high and steep stretches near Scauri where the coast opens to low, flat rocks near the Cala dell'Alga.
Pantelleria is a volcanic island so you won't find sandy beaches here, there are a number of rocky slopes, but this can make the water inaccessible to some. The island has many coves, bays and caves that are accessible from the mainland and are suitable for children due to shallow waters and smooth rocks that allow easy descent into the water. In some places there are also natural pools carved into the rock. On Pantelleria that beaches that we recommend are Cala Cinque Denti, Nikà, Arco dell'Elefante, Balata dei Turchi, Bue Marino and Gadir.
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